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Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_Interview  
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Posted on Jan 4 2015
Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents




Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



What do you consider the first thing that inspired you to pursuit a career in fashion?
I have known for many years that I wanted to be a fashion designer. I had a great little sewing room in my parents’ house, where I made dresses for my friends and I. Later I went to fashion school in Denmark and we had a menswear course, which was really fun for me and I found out that I enjoyed the technical part of doing menswear. It was quite unintentional, but I had great tutors who inspired me to go further with my dreams.




Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



How would you sum up the main aesthetic pulse of your work?
My aesthetic is a mix of modern men´s tailoring and sportswear, the undergarments are clean and classic like button down shirts or polo t-shirts with a fabric mix in them. Where the outer garments are more experimental with a larger mix of fabrics. For me it is all about the pattern cutting and the line work, the mix of materials and the clean futuristic look it has when it is put together.




Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



Where do you draw your inspiration from?
I love to explore libraries and go through different books everything from subculture to photographic; I photocopy and try to put everything together to a story I can relate to and be inspired from.



Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



Your pieces give away the vibe of a contemporary fresh take on a classic menswear MOD style.
Would you share with us some of your thoughts behind this balance between the classics and your own futuristic vision?

The classic has always been important to me; because I believe my man appreciate tradition and craftsmanship. The futuristic aspect came quite out of the blue as an impulsive reaction from playing on the dummy with 3D pattern cutting. I think the mix of future and classic is important for it to be something new, and for me to be something fashion menswear is missing today.




Your pieces give away the vibe of a contemporary fresh take on a classic menswear MOD style. Would you share with us some of your thoughts behind this balance between the classics and your own futuristic vision? The classic has always been important to me; because I believe my man appreciate tradition and craftsmanship. The futuristic aspect came quite out of the blue as an impulsive reaction from playing on the dummy with 3D pattern cutting. I think the mix of future and classic is important for it to be something new, and for me to be something fashion menswear is missing today.



Another thing that captures the viewer's eye is definitely the complex technique of your fabrics.
Tell us a few things about how you managed them in order to complete your garments.

Making the garments can be quite complicated and I do a lot of trials, sew up a half a jacket, making it bigger etc. It took me a lot of time in the beginning to figure out how the fabrics would work together, what looked good and what did not work. Even thought this sounds like quite a hurdle, this is the part I really enjoy.





Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



Since you just graduated from the Royal College of Art in London,
what do you now consider your goals as a new up and coming designer?

I am starting my own label Ellen Pedersen and hoping to show in London in the 2015, which I am very excited about.
The label should be the perfect balance between modern tailoring and sportswear in beautiful materials and interesting pattern cutting.
I believe I am offering something unique to the menswear industry and I hope people will find it fascinating!




Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



Your work really echoes the great fashion tradition of many Scandinavian creators, with its minimal vibe and great deal of craftsmanship.
Do you draw any inspiration from your danish background, and do you see yourself as a part of that tradition?

I would love to be part of that tradition with minimalism and craftsmanship; I think I learned a lot doing my BA at TEKO design school, who really appreciate the making of the garments and has great facilities. I think the mix between being Danish and have learned the craft, technique in a slightly conservative way combined with doing a MA at the Royal College of Art in London, where people are more liberal,
advent-garde and provocative has been a great combination for me, which has pushed me much further.




Ellen Hedermann Pedersen_ladiesngents



ellenpedersen.wix.com/hedermann



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Ancient Greek Sandals_Interview  
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Posted on Dec 14 2014
AncientGreekSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greek Sandals



What got you interested and excited about ancient Greek culture in the first place?
When I was a student I wanted to be an archaeologist. One of my favourite things was to visit archaeological sites and getting lost in them trying to imagine how things looked back in the day. I was always drawn to mythology and Ancient Greek art and jewellery. The inspiration is unlimited and I always discover new things to explore.




AncientGreekSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greek Sandals
Kariatida



AncientGreekSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greek Sandals
Nephele High Wedge



Why did you choose to limit your collection to sandals? Do you plan to experiment with other kinds of shoes?
The idea of Ancient Greek Sandals came from the touristic sandals that one can find in the islands and the area around Acropolis.
Our idea was to make a better version of them using the best raw materials with a more intricate design. It was something that was missing from the international market and we offered the product at the correct time.
For the moment we want to get established as a sandal brand, we have no intention to experiment with any other kind of shoes.





AncientGreekSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greek Sandals



You used to work for Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, in Paris. And then you moved to Corfu.
Does life on a greek island provide all the creative influences that a designer needs?

It certainly does, when it comes to designing sandals, Corfu is an ideal place to live.





AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals

AGS for Carven Banana High



Do you ever get feelings of insecurity, regarding your work?
Of course I do. I always ask the opinion of my colleagues or friends and feedback is always welcome. Having said that, most of the times I know beforehand if I have designed something commercially successful. I get a strange feeling of excitement!





AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals





Your next plan is a collaboration with Lalaounis, the famous
greek jeweller. Would you tell us about this exciting new project?

Ilias LALAoUNIS has always been a great inspiration for me, not only in my designs but also in founding my own brand. It was a dream going through the archives of
this heritage brand, visiting its headquarters and witnessing the art of craftsmanship. I worked very closely with Maria Lalaounis- creative director of the brand- and we had the same vision from the start, the whole procedure was both very creative and fun.
The collection consists of seven precious sandals, decorated with 24 k gold plated iconic LALAoUNIS jewels






AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals
Aris for men



AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals


Aria



As an artist, you probably need some kind of confirmation now and then - where does this come from?
I certainly don't think of myself as an artist; as a designer it is enormously gratifying when I get a message from a happy customer or when I see a girl walking next to me wearing my sandals or when I get to see the sandals in major fashion publications.




AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals

AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals


Filareskia 



AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals


Filosia



You have been working in fashion for many years - has your view of the fashion world evolved over these years?
Do you see things differently than you did when you started out? If so, in what way?

When I started it was a dream world for me. Working next to Marc Jacobs was surreal, it was the ultimate dream come true. Having worked six years at LV and two at Balenciaga was amazing, but also made me realize that I wanted to create something of my own, I didn't want to work endlessly for other people.
I think I reached my limits.
I  still think that it is an exciting beautiful world and I miss the adrenaline of the shows but I have other priorities now. I love the fact that I get to design for my own brand, express my own ideas and wishes.




AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals_Marios-schwab
Ancient Greek Sandals for Marios Schwab





You recently got the "Stelios Award for young entrepreneurs" in Greece; what did this mean for you?
We got nominated for the Stelios award for the second time this year (last year we didn't get it). Basically it is awarded the best performing new company based in Greece. Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou is looking at the concept as well as the growth that the company performs since it started. Nikolas Minoglou who is the co-founder of the brand and my business partner presented all the figures to Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou and I talked about the product and it seems like we convinced him! I think it is tremendously important for a designer to have the support of a business oriented person sharing the same vision.



AncientGreeksSandals_ladiesngents_Ancient Greeks Sandals

Hermes for men







www.ancient-greek-sandals.com



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Yiorgos Eleftheriades interview to Mr Kalamaris  
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Posted on Nov 30 2014
Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance
Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



You have named your collection “Emergence of an appearance” - would you describe to me the significance this collection has for you, and how you decided to give it this title?
What my intentions have been regarding the collection for F/W15 were to work toward achieving a look of lasting style as opposed to the sense of ephemeral that tends to characterises the world of fashion - As for the title it was inspired by my visit to the exhibition “Le surrealisme et l’objet” at the Centre Pompidou in Paris.




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



You have mentioned that the inspiration for this collection comes from the women who embodied the anarchic, free spirit of the Dada movement. Would you tell me a little about the way you went about researching Dada for the benefit of designing this collection?
The women of the Dada movement indeed provided me with the inspiration for the women’s collection. What intrigued and amazed me were their geometrical silhouettes, their urban sophistication and their ability to combine a certain extravagance with practicality. Bu Dada was also the inspiration for the men’s line - the freedom that is the signature style of the bohemians' wardrobes and the qualities of sportswear that enable the body to perform perfectly have been a significant influence to my work this season. The shapes that characterise both collections are thus conceived so as to resemble the swift lines and the mismatched shapes of postmodern architecture as it emerged in the 1950s, at the very beginning of the movement.




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



During the time period that you were involved in designing this collection, did you allow external influences to reach you and your work? Did you welcome or did you shut out the outside world during the creative process?
I am always open to outside influences because what I am interested in is to make sure that my references are not obvious.




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



Does the creative process ever function as a sort of a series of psychotherapy sessions, which bears its fruit in the form of the completed designs?

In my case I would rather say that each collection is actually a psychological portrait not of myself, but of influential historical personalities who have functioned as inspirations .




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



I would like to take the opportunity to confess that I am touched by the fact that whenever I turn to you for advice regarding the way to wear something, you are always positive and enthusiastic and so full of ideas, where someone else would feel very awkward faced with such a request coming from someone like me. This is why I would like to ask you your opinion: Do you think that we tend to set limits to our open-mindedness and our creativity when faced with something that is not easy for us to understand? Do we tend to react short-sightedly when dealing with something alien or hard to grasp?
First of all I would like to thank you. Personally I’m attracted to whatever is different than what I already know. I do believe that getting involved with whatever is not familiar or with whatever looks alien, provides a great opportunity to further my thought, to move on and to explore new territories. However, I realise that this goes against what is considered common sense in our society, where people tend to be intimidated by what they perceive as alien or different to what they are familiar with.




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



Do you believe that in recent years people have become more conservative in the way they dress, compared to times when flamboyance was not only welcome but also celebrated? Or maybe this is not the case? Also, where does the evolution of people’s taste in clothes meet the designers’ creativity? How do designers nowadays respond to people’s moods and habits - not to mention the financial crisis that definitely takes a toll on the amount of attention and care we place on our appearance?
We do live in societies where stereotypes thrive and conservatism is the norm - especially now, because of the financial crisis, this is all the more obvious and intense. People need to have the feeling that they belong in a group, they need to look like the members of that group, thus they need to dress accordingly. Nowadays even what we call high fashion is nothing more than a luxury version of Zara, where one needs merely money instead of style. Designers on their part, design for their audiences whom they perceive as being people who look like them. And as for the powerful mega brands these have been nothing but harmful to any sense individuality and to people’s ability to express themselves.




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



On a purely personal level, what follows after the presentation of “Emergence of an appearance”? Looking back, what thoughts do you make about your life so far?
I am only thinking of what comes next...




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



Have you given any thought to what would constitute a really great and welcome challenge for you at this stage in your life?
What will come, will come. I never think ahead in this way.




Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance


Yiorgos Eleftheriades_interview_Mr Kalamaris_ladiesngents_ Emergence of an Appearance



In your experience so far, what is it that people try to express through the clothes they choose: they wishes or their life experiences?

Both, I believe - and this is why the “emergence” of our individual selves takes them both into account.




yiorgoseleftheriades.gr



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Collector of Images_Martijn van Strien_Interview  
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Posted on Nov 20 2014
Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




One reads that for you “fear is a word unknown to your vocabulary”.
How do you manage? What is your secret in avoiding fear?

Accepting mistakes and failures is the first step, I think. If you don’t fear taking the wrong door or heading in a wrong direction you’re free to do whatever you want, whenever you want. After a while I can always analyse and go into a different direction again, without regretting the path that I initially took.






Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




Your collections derive from “imaginative worlds” - would you describe these worlds in brief?
Do you like to visualise imaginative worlds and inhabit them in your dreams?

I love collecting images. When I start a new project I look at everything I gathered and create a story or atmosphere that combines it all, a common feeling that comes from these pictures. That then becomes the world for whose inhabitants I design my new collection.





Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




When setting out to design a new collection, is it on the spur of
inspiration or is it an inner need to create that motivates you?

I draw my ‘inspiration’ from the materials normally. I want to research something, there is not yet a vision of what the collection should be in my head at that point.





Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




What kind of partnerships in the fashion world are you interested in?
In other words, what do you look for in a potential partner?

People that can introduce me to new techniques or materials would be perfect at the moment. On the other hand one of my main inspirations is architecture, I think it would be amazing to collaborate with an architect as well to create something out of this world that challenges both realms.





Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




Would you describe the basic characteristics of the “mphvs” label?
The experimental nature of it is the most important for me as the designer. I will start any project with the desire to research a new technique, material or treatment without thinking of what the result will be. So I have no idea what the next collection will be like and that’s a feeling that gives me a lot of freedom.





Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




Your new collection for the “mphvs” label bears a quotation for Dostoyevsky’s “The Brothers Karamazov” - what did you like most about the novel?

I most enjoy the extremely vivid characters he draws up. How you can totally relate to all the characters in the novel, and understand their relationships. I think you learn a lot about yourself and the people around you by reading his novels.





Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




In what way is this collection a 21st approach to haute couture?
Haute couture to me is the perfect marriage of a designer’s creative mind and the customer’s wishes and dimensions. Because it was such a craft and time-consuming process to create haute couture garments for clients it was something very exclusive. If we make proper use of the innovations that are being made in the 21st century we could make this accessible for everyone. With the continuation of this collection I would like to make that happen.




Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




Which factors have helped shape your aesthetic sensibilities?
I think traveling was the first thing that I really loved in life, and it was the main reason why I got into design in the first place. I thought being a designer would take me around the world. So I think seeing new places, both nature and cities, the contrast between them, and thinking about the raw powers that give form to both of them are what shaped my vision on beauty and aesthetics. Staying close to the technique I use to create things plays an important role in my aesthetic as well. I prefer to keep a design simple by sticking to one technique and material when creating something new to keep it clear and to challenge myself to get the most out of a production method, instead of adding other things just to make it ‘look nice’.





Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs




Have you ever experimented with your personal style?
I think I’m still experimenting with that, but within the framework of keeping things as clean and simple as possible that means there aren’t that many crazy differences between the style of my collections. I like doing non-fashion related projects on the side to challenge myself to try new aesthetics and styles, and to take small discoveries back to my fashion collections.




Martijn van Strien_ladiesngents_ mphvs



photos.  Olya Oleinic
hair & make-up.  Cristina Vila
models.  Ian @ FIC  &  Katie @ Paparazzi




mphvs.com



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