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Chow Ka Wa Key_Be Sensual_interview  
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Posted on Jul 12 2015
Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key


Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key






Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Your collection for SS16 has the title “NO ASIANS PLZ” and, as you have informed us, it has been inspired by a profile
description on the gay dating app Grindr. But why did you pick it?

This was actually from what I discussed with my homosexual Asian friends who use the gay dating app Grindr to meet friends. They kept saying if they were white they would get more guys to approach them in London and at the same time they said they would never go for Asian guys. I felt very interested in this identity issue about their own race and heritage. I think this is happening not only within the gay group; I think that Asians tend to underplay the problem of being over-obsessed with Western cultures, aesthetics and lifestyle that may not necessarily suit them.





Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key






Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




You have stated your intention to have this collection start a sensual revolution and to turn everyone into a “RICE QUEEN”.
What is a “rice queen” by the way?

Rice queen means a white homosexual guy who is mainly into Asian guys.





Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key

How do you imagine a sensual revolution?
From what I perceived Asian cultures and aesthetics like Japanese and Hong Kongese ones, they are so many subtle soft sensual elements that involve loads of emotions and romance. They are not aggressive that will “bang” you but you need to feel it, touch it, and then you will realize the emotions beyond.
Revolution always sounds like a hard aggressive thing but I hope the sensual revolution would use the Asian way to instill the appreciation of Asian heritage and beauty into the people with the adorable soft textures and colours in east-meets-west silhouettes.






Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Which factors have contributed in shaping your aesthetic sensibilities?
My Asian heritage and my muse Ryan Mcginley.





Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Can a collection function as an inspiration in itself? Or can it function as a statement?
The collection functions to show the possibility of Asian aesthetics, cultures and romance with the modern perspective.





Can a collection function as an inspiration in itself? Or can it function as a statement?  The collection functions to show the possibility of Asian aesthetics, cultures and romance with the modern perspective.




Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Why do you choose to design a men’s line?
I think there is a demand for more sensual and romantic side of menswear with softer modernized masculinity
in the menswear industry now and I hope I can contribute to it.




Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Is there anything about the fashion industry that you are not fond of?
The fact that it’s a money business and you just need to accept that





Chow-Ka-Wa-Key-ladiesngents-Chow ka Wa Key




Collaborators: Anna Duthie (Printed Textiles), John Leung (Footwear)
Photography: Rainer Torrado
Creative Assistant: Thoaï Niradeth
Hair and Make Up: Elika Bavar
Models: YDanil, Liren Shih & annick Konan



kawakey.com




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XAVI REYES_Stylish Tales_Interview  
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Posted on May 27 2015
Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents
XAVI REYES_ladiesngents




Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents

F W  1 5 - 1 6



Before starting your own brand, you had worked with fashion houses in Spain. Now that you are on your own, do you find that things are like you expected them to be? Is it all turning out the way you had pictured it?
Yes, it's even better. The tricky part is to make all the decisions. You don't work for someone else anymore, you work for yourself
and you have full responsibility for success or failure.






Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents

S S  1 5




You have cited sadness among your sources of inspiration. This sounds very interesting - could you elaborate on this?
Sadness or melancholy is my most intimate part, which I find with when I'm in my room with my music, my scents, my thoughts and reflections.
That's when I'm most creative.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




When you start working on a new collection, is it usually on the spur of
inspiration or is it rather a need to go out and make a statement?

My work has nothing to do with statements. It's about a little story that I feel like telling at that moment.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




You have long experience and have done a lot, from different positions in the world of fashion. You have worked as a fashion editor, you went throught two fashion schools, you have worked in fashion houses. Now, if I asked you to name the one most important, most valuable
lesson that you learnt during these past years, what would you say?

The first one: in order to continue, I need to sell my product. The second: not to pay too much attention to what people tell you, either good or bad.
And third: it would be worth nothing if I couldn't share it with the people I love.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




Regarding your personal vision as a fashion designer,
are there themes or details that you persistently return to, over and over again?

The unisex world is what attracts me most.  And though not all my designs are unisex, I always try to make sure that most of them are.
I am into large and comfortable silhouettes, without size.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




Do you find that working while on a good psychological mood is better, and more creative, than the other way around? Or could possible a difficult time prove to be creatively rich?

I prefer to work on a good psychological moment, otherwise I feel like I am "locked",
although I can use this difficult moment for inspiration.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




Right now, at this stage in your life, what would be a really welcome challenge?
To make a fashion show in another big city, such as London or Paris.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




How do you see the fashion industry coping in these times of recession?
In what way does it affect -negatively, or possibly, also positively- your own work?

I think it's a good time for young designers. We have more creative resources to take forward a brand and the public is very attentive to us. It is difficult to survive but with the help of the internet it is easy to sell your product anywhere in the world, from your small study.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




How about your personal style; do you ever tend to experiment with it?
Of course. I have gone through many stages. Skater, Pseudo-Gothic, Japanese Kwaii, 90's sporty, and now I'm in a mix between the style of the 70's and 90's.





Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents



Xavier Reyes-ladiesngents




Has there ever been any one garment that has played an important role at a specific moment in your life?
A black sweatshirt, a pair of sneakers and a pair of levi's jeans that I think have always been there in my closet.



xavireyes.com




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ELISA KAUFMANN_Sculptural Grace_Interview  
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Posted on May 24 2015
Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents
Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents

Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




When was the first time that you envisioned using wood as a material for your collections?
What was the initial inspiration for such an unconventional choice?

During my first year in school I loved to use special materials or to do experiments to develop new materials. With wood I started to work in my second year.. I wanted to achieve a wooden material which is movable and gets more the characteristics from a fabric. The fact that wood is quite stiff and how it is when you put it on the movable body was a nice and a big field for experiments. In my prediploma collection I went ahead with the wood.
For the headpieces I had a collaboration with a turner. He made some wooden caps for me. And for my graduate Collection, wood was also my Material Experiment and my goal was to get some accessories and parts of clothes in wood, which support the body like a spine...





Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




You have stated that you like the fact that wood provides support, in the sense of physical stability; as for instance happens with a pair of pleated trousers. What is your feedback by the men who have worn these?
Hmm It is of corse quite special to wear a piece of wood.. directly on the smooth skin…which is in fact not movable
But in a way..the suspenders they give the rules to the wearer - how he has to move - or he has to stand and how the pleated trousers look like.
The wood is in this outfit the "Shape Maker" from the garments but also from the wearer - the wood influences the posture! That’s the part of the physical stability.
The other part is the subject of superstitions: if you have all the time wood with you,
because it’s your hat or another part of your outfit, you can always knock on wood!





Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



What kind of wood do you usually like to choose?
Do you do research in order to find and manipulate different kinds of wood?

I think I did a lot of research with a friend of mine. Patrick Doggweiler is interior archtiect and an expert on everything that has to do with wood. He was my vis à vis during all these wood projects. He explained to me some rules, gave me advice regarding what is possible and what’s not.
We really wanted to do work that is enriching for both of us, that expands our horizons…For me as a designer it was so good to work like that. I felt free but there were some limits from his side, which meant I needed to think in another way or I needed to change stuff and develop.
And that forced me to get more and other ideas.






Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




So many of your creations remind one of sculptures. I guess it is legitimate to say that they could also be seen as sculptures.
Do you also see them this way?

Yes, yes, in a way. It’s also because of the effect the stiff wood has on the moving body. But actually I love the moving body; dancing is my second passion. So it is quite intersting also for me that my clothes are little bit more sculptural. Sculpture means something more about stability and a sculpture stays like it is, it stays unchanged. Perhaps what I am doing is an unconscious revolt against the extremely fast rhythms of the fashion world ?
I think it is still not necessary to show that many looks in one runway show. Or to show new clothes every single season, and to have thousands of different seasons… I think that’s not that important! I think fashion should be more about clothes that have a long life;
It should be about quality and sustainability!





Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




In fact, are you ever tempted to create a garment that offers only the aesthetic pleasure that an art piece provides?
Perhaps my wooden pieces are a little bit more of art pieces than garments…And there is something aesthetically pleasing about them, like maybe they could be in a museum as sculptures, yes. But they should be in a permanent exhibition, ha, ha.  But, seriously, I think already aesthetic pleasure is important.
Looking at an aesthetically pleasing art piece, evokes emotions in you.





Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




Which factors have most of all helped shape your aesthetic sensibilities?
During my studies in Basel, in Switzerland, I developed my sense for shapes and materials. I was also taught how to be attentive and I was definitely learning a lot from the other students. We all learned a lot from each other. I think that was a really inspiring atmosphere for all of us.
Then, on the other hand, I work a lot with things that come from me, from what I have inside of me: memories, personal things.
But aesthetic pleasure is always a must. And also a sense of humour that I want my garments to evoke.
Fashion should not be taken so seriously all the time.





Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




Is there something about the fashion industry that you do not like and would change given the opportunity to do so?
The incredible speed of the fashion world and the huge quantity of collections that the big brands are bringing out all the time! And everyone is so stressed. But is it really important to have that many shows per season? I am not sure at all…





Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents




Elisa Kaufmann-ladiesngents



www.elisakaufmann.com




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Leonard Wong_Be sophisticated_Interview  
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Posted on May 12 2015


Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps

Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps

A W  1 5 - 1 6




You have stated that in order to break out of conformity, you first absorb cultural traditional styles - would you explain which characteristics of traditional styles you find inspiring or intriguing?
I get inspiration from a variety of traditional styles; they are the origins of our culture.
Chinese and Japanese traditional style run in my blood.





Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps

E x p e r i m e n t a l   l i n e



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




Why do you opt for minimalism in all your creations?
I try to dispose of unnecessary elements in the evolution of my process,
in order to reach a strength that is eternal and sophisticated.




Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




Do you ever visualize the future of fashion? Do you like to imagine how the creation of garments will evolve?
The future of fashion is connected with the evolution of new technologies, which will help create infinite possibilities. Technology advances relentlessly changing humanity along the way. As time goes by, the form and shape of garments will change in line with the way technology has been changing human thought.





Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




Can you recall how old you were when you first started having an interest in clothes and fashion?
And how was this interest expressed?

When I was Junior high School; that was when I started having an actual interest in fashion. I found it interesting because I was thinking that fashion has the power to change the image of humans.





Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




Which factors have contributed to shaping your aesthetic sensibilities?
My aesthetic was shaped by the sum of my life experience.





Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




Can you recall an outfit, or even just one garment, that played a decisive role at some specific point in your life?
It would be a garment I made when I was still a 2nd year student. It was a great success and it outweighed my 1st year in school, when I had not been doing well.





Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps



Leonard Wong_ladiesngents_PeterPopps




In your opinion, what is it that people try to express through the clothes
they choose: their wishes, or their life experience?

The choice of clothes that people make, is an attempt to understand an answer which is embodied within themselves.



S h o e s  b y  P e t e r  P o p p s




leonardwong.jp




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