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OBOYI_Let your mind wander_Interview  
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Posted on Mar 14 2016
Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic

Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic


Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




What prompted the move from designing costumes for films and plays, to creating leather accessories?
At one point after university, some performance/ theatre projects I was involved in where either unpaid or truly just a styling job, and I'm really bad when it comes to combining outfits! I was still trying to truly understand what it is that I'm really good at, as I needed to create, to use my own hands, to start from scratch..
And the leather was love at first smell.





Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Do your projects bear the marks of an artist looking at the world as a stage or a movie set?
...Or a cartoon! It's somehow like creating a parallel universe. For instance at the moment I'm working on a kid's backpack collection- always around the Oboyi sustainable concept. So these tiny backpacks bear inspiration from animals, of course!
Though fairly abstract, I call them "Oboyi forest beasts", they will all be given special names and "certificates" of birth.





Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




You have decided not to do seasonal collections, but instead to design
timeless pieces. How has feedback been so far?

Ha ha, feedback depends on a profile of the person unfortunately.. Because, as a kind of a religion, design and fashion made us believe in few things: design, invest, produce, repeat. So as long as you follow the rules, people will accept you.
My idea, instead, was to make something that would last longer than one season: because the more you wear leather, the more personalised it becomes and then you love it even more. In a way, it's my way of showing my respect to  the customer, to nature and to the product itself, that has to be taken care with the great attention.





Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Would you describe the concept and the atmosphere of your ONNA Collection?
What provoked your interest in samurai women?

I guess a lot of Asian friends and Asian films!The idea behind the Onna is very simple: a woman ( which is a translation of "onna" from Japanese), woman as a warrior, mother and wife. It's a very intense theme for me, and I was just trying to reflect it through colours and body-like volumes.
Following my instinct , my sensibility, almost only on how to place colours and forms, at some point the technique I was using, waving the leather, was just a heavy mind game and as a kind of a disease I needed to get over it. On the other hand developing the "story" through images was a temptation for me, and I enjoyed making the photos and imagining that they are just a brief moment of a much longer "film...





Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Oboyi-ladiesngents-Bojana Nikodijevic




Which factors have mostly helped shape your aesthetic sensibilities?
I'm sure we're shaped from our early age, as I remember how much I loved the colours and shapes on my grandmother's dresses and heels,
the Italian design magazines, but also all the hard years in 90s Serbia... Then all the old films and the new ones I've seen in Kinoteka in Belgrade, meeting people from other cultures and definitely, nowadays, the possibility to travel.





www.oboyi.it




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GUNEE Homme_Music to our eyes_Interview  
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Posted on Feb 1 2016
GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger
GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger

M o u n t a i n  T r i p  C o l l e c t i o n



You have shown two collections, already. How did the thought process and your work method evolve
between the first and the second one? 

The approach of the first and the second collection was totally different.
The first collection was originally created, because I just wanted to make a photo project. I planed to make six different pattern, with six different colours, that should show my handmade-illustration-style best. At that time I did not know that GUNEE Homme would be the result of that photo project.
The thoughts for the second collection were more target-oriented.
All the patterns are pieces of a coherent story and not just loose fragments. Also the colours are more synchronised. If you would compare GUNEE Homme with a music album, then the first collection would be the prelude or the introtrack of that album. The second collection would be the first closed track with its own complete story.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




What is the motivation behind each new project; is it a sudden inspiration or is it an inner
need that propels you to make a statement?

The motivation for each new project and each new collection is different. Sometimes it can be a sudden inspiration, that creates a whole collection.
And sometimes it can be a conflict or a chain of thought, that I would like to give a face to, in the form of a pattern sequence. In some works I hide small messages, in others I don't. It's different, every time.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger

P r e l u d e  C o l l e c t i o n  /  C a m p a i g n




Which factors would you name as the ones that have most shaped your aesthetic sensibilities?
When I was younger I watched a lot of japanese animation films. I think they had the most influence on me during my childhood.
Later, at the age of 16, the problems of growing up and the music I listened to during that time had a big impact on me. Music in general has the most impact on my work. It can wake up emotions and memories. Music shapes my aesthetic sensibilities, because it is abstract and sometimes I try to give it a visual form through my work. I'm like a visual transformer for it. Music is like a box of different coloured plasticine for me and my challenge is to make a comprehensive form out of it.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




Do you have any idées fixes,  regarding the content or your method of work? 
I do not have idées fixes regarding the content of my work, but I do have them when it comes to my method of work. I think it's very important for me, not to think consciously during a work process. You can reflect your work after you've done it, but not in the meantime.
For me, design is a process of feeling and not a process of thinking.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




Can you recall an outfit or a garment of yours that has played a significant role in some moment in your life?
No, not for the moment.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




The presentation of your collections is a sort of artwork in itself. Do you decide on the presentation while working on a collection, or is it something you start planning only after you have realised your designs?
Normally everything is made by myself. The skeletal structure of GUNEE Homme - the corporate design - is made by myself. When I start with a new collection and create new pattern, I'm not in communication with anyone during that time. The basic concept, the idea and everything around it is done by myself, too.
The campaign and the presentation of the collection is the only moment where I take a step to the side.
I entrusted the visual language of the campaign to my photographer. I have worked for a long time with Studio Peripetie and I trust her work 100%.
I gave her the input, the inspiration and the idea behind the collection and she transformed it through her own view. She has a strong visual language and I love to work with her, because her view of things gives my work a new facet.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




Would you share with us the main characteristics of your collection 02. Mountain Trip?
The new collection arose from the inspiration of two pictures: "Wanderer above the Sea of Fog" (1818) by Caspar David Friedrich, and my illustration "Cube Cat".
The latter features two cats on the bottom and two mountains in the background, behind them. I imagined climbing this mountains and wondered what it would look like once you got to the top and you were exposed to the sublime surroundings and the landscapes.
That's how I came up with the name of the collection - "02. Mountain Trip". With this collection I therefore created the structure and the layer of that landscape.
I also transformed the mountain from my illustration "Cube Cat" into a pattern for my "Mountain Peak" shirt.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




What would be a major and welcome professional challenge at this stage in your life?
At the moment, GUNEE Homme is producing shirts and bow ties. A welcome professional challenge at this stage would be the expansion of the product range. I have many ideas and actually start to work on them, but I think it's important to finish the work on one piece, before starting to work on another. I'm a real perfectionist. And as long as I'm not finished and happy with the quality of a piece or product, I can't start to work on another one.





GUNEE Homme_ladiesngents-Eugen Laitenberger




gunee-homme.com


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Shushu Tong_Cooler Than Grunge_Interview  
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Posted on Jan 26 2016
Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang

Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang



Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Which female stereotypes does each of you draw inspiration from?
We do not have a certain female stereotypes in mind. Each season, we choose one whom we like , we give her a background story, a personality and we imagine how she would like to be dressed. But it would definitely be a girly girl.





Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




What triggered your interest in combining grunge street style with exclusive tailoring finish?
Was this in any way a technical challenge?

Because we want to sell at a higher price, LOL. The tailoring finish is more like an attitude towards the fabric. We want the style to be edgy and interesting.
And the but product itself should be properly made.
I think this combination is cooler than just being grunge. As for this being a technical challenge, the truth is that its always difficult for a small brand which works with small quantities, but we are always willing to challenge ourselves.





Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Would you share the philosophy and the characteristics of your collection for Spring / Summer 2016?
We watched a film, Mi vida local; its the story of a girl gang. They are so cute, young and fierce. This is a very fascinating mix and a very inspiring one.





Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Do you find that there are days, when working on a new collection,
that you suffer a lousy psychological mood? Does this affect the way you work in any way? Could it be a motivation to be
even more creative, for instance? 

Once you take this up as your career, you should learn to control your mood and pace.
We are not like artists, we are doing a business. So we try to be rational and creative at the same time . And sure, maintaining a good mood
throughout the work is helpful for every thing.





Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Which factors have helped shaped your aesthetic sensibilities through the years?
We both grew up watching a lot a Japanese animation and cartoons, such as CARDCAPTOR SAKURA, EVA etc, which probably have had a huge effect on our aesthetic.





Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang




Shushu Tong-ladiesngents-Liushu Lei -Yutong Jiang



shushutong.wix.com




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Hannah Wallace_Designing is a journey_Interview  
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Posted on Dec 28 2015
Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview

Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview


Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




You have explained that your research is a combination of subculture, science and engineering that you have individually translated through
different design methods. Would you elaborate on your research process ?

 I used a vast variation of research to develop a collection that is interactive and insulated as well as using breathable fabrics that enable flexibility and capacity in construction. The research process was always on-going, there were always new techniques to be discovered, for instance one of my initial concepts was inspired by the work of Hrair Sarkissian at the Tate Modern, 'Execution squares,2008'. He photographed a place where executions had taken place, so I went to a local housing estate where I knew riots had occurred; there were also high rise tower block flats which looked as if there were reaching into space.
Many of the buildings on the estate were names after the planets in space so I chose Pluto Close as the name of this collection. I then went on to draw my own patterns to make the garments, which took me five months to complete.





Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




How long does your research usually take?
 As this collection was designed as part of my degree, the process started in September 2014 - May 2015, but the collection was made in the last five months of my degree. I used a variety of manual techniques, there was a lot of stuffing and stitching! I hand pressed over 4000 eyelets into the Spiked Puffer Jacket, all the tubes were also hand finished using heat shrinking wrap and later hand threaded through the eyelets. To create the silver metallic Puffer Jacket, I heat bonded emergency blankets to a lightweight nylon. I used the emergency foil reflective blankets because of their many uses and colour. Derived from NASA technology, the aluminium helps redirect infrared energy. There were different techniques and stories behind each jacket. 





Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




Do you enjoy it as a separate part of your work, does it inspire you in itself?
Yes, I chose to study fashion design because of the practicality of the course, I enjoy being creative and researching into areas which I can develop and translate into fashion design. My concepts are expressed through 2D and 3D interpretations of research, visual imagery such as primary research, sketching, and experimenting with 3D. I work with these methods, as I need to visually see a journey emerging in my sketchbooks, which enables me to push my concepts further.
When designing clothes I develop a journey, a diverse exploration of arts and in-depth storytelling.





Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




What was it that provoked your interest in Astronomy? Is it something that goes back to your childhood years?
I'm intrigued by the mystery and dystopian reputation it has. The dynamic colours and patterns created are inspiring. The many light forms in the galaxy such as star maps, shooting stars, meteor showers and galaxy constellations initially inspired my research into light engineering.
I used this research in order to create my own trimmings and finishes.





Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




Why did you choose to design menswear?
Deciding to specialize in menswear design was encouraged by the technicality and engineering of mens clothes. I find the many practicalities of mens garments intriguing, as there are many functional attributes that can be developed and manipulated in their clothing. For instance I started to explore functional garments in my second year of study and constructed a hooded coat with a built-in adjustable backpack and detachable sleeping bag.
It was decided that the garment could have been used for a number of activities including camping gear and festival wear or clothes for the homeless.
Mens clothing is thought of as uninteresting and simple, but when I design, it is without limitations as I investigate and re-create unusual shapes and trimmings taken form a variety of art forms.  Exploring technical and traditional fabrics inspire me to manipulate and create my own textures and silhouettes.





Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




Which factors have contributed to shaping your aesthetics?
A lot of things inspire me, such as art, illustration, different subcultures, architecture and sculpture. But also other things such as evolution,
street photography and revolutions in history.





Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




Hannah Wallace - ladiesngents - Hannah Wallace Interview




http://cargocollective.com/HWallace





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