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POLAIRE interview  
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Posted on Oct 27 2014
Polaire_ladiesngents

At Polaire you “scout for impressions” -­- would you tell us more about this scouting process?
Which factors have shaped your aesthetic sensibilities?

Since we are coming from different backgrounds we can tap into a great pool of knowledge and impressions, which is especially important for Daniel and Horatiu who are in charge of the designs. As an example, they have studied architecture and moved through industrial design all the way to fashion design. So this allows you to discover other design techniques and develop an interdisciplinary approach. Some of the inspirations come from the exchange with other designers, visiting art exhibitions, watching science fiction movies, looking at Austrian architecture of the '60s, drawings by Hans Ruedi Giger or car designs. We often already know what we want and in order to complement our vision we do research on how this idea, shape, angle, material might have been already interpreted; interestingly, we often find it has been contemplated by nature. So to sum it up, it really is about keeping your eyes and ears open.






Polaire_ladiesngents



 How do you decide which objects you are going to design? Are you going to add more objects to your list or stick to the ones you have chosen and go on coming up with new versions of them?

When working on collaborations or certain shows the objects are pretty much predetermined. Apart from that we work on complementing our collections or simply follow the inspiration. It is quite possible that we will extend our offering, but for the moment we want to focus on Polaire as an accessories brand for glasses, jewelry and shoes.




Polaire_ladiesngents

Polaire_ladiesngents



You presented your first collection together with the fashion label [ep_anoui] at the Berlin Fashion Week 2014.
What was the most interesting aspect of this experience?

Pretty much everything; we learned a lot through this experience. What was very interesting for us to see was how media report about and reflect the show and the designs presented  It was also very important to experience how people would react to our designs. Sitting in the audience, we were really delighted hearing almost everybody around us say ... “look at the shoes, they are just amazing, and the glasses”. That was an important feedback to receive.




Polaire_ladiesngents

Polaire_ladiesngents

Copyright by Marlene Rahmann



What brought you all together at Polaire and how was the idea for the brand born?
Daniel and Horatiu met at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, so they knew each other first. They got together rather by chance. Horatiu was helping Daniel with his diploma project and they had worked in great symbiosis. Soon afterwards they decided to do an award project for which they won second place. Ever since they keep on creating together. I joined a bit later by a funny coincidence – I met Daniel in a club. I am hooked on great design works and I was immediately impressed by the work and ideas of the boys. It happens quite rarely that when you meet a person at 4 a.m. in a pretty noisy and dark place  and exchange contact info for the sake of doing business, you actually end up founding a company together. So what brought us three together is a big deal of chance, passion for aesthetics and the wish to create something innovative. In that sense the brand Polaire emerged very naturally.




Polaire_ladiesngents

Polaire_ladiesngents



Which has been your true breakthrough moment, during the time you have been working together at Polaire?
We are very ambitious and also very clear about what we want to achieve with Polaire so we hardly ever would call a real breakthrough a breakthrough. We have been lucky to experience some success: the first shows, consent of government aids and sponsorships we applied for, the first publications in relevant media, the very positive feedback from customers. But we can not rest on our laurels. I am not even sure whether we will ever consider a certain event a real breakthrough for Polaire. Maybe, if anything, being able to open our first beautiful flagship store.




www.polaire.at




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ANA LJUBINKOVIC interview  
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Posted on Aug 26 2014
ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents

ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents

ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



Why did you decide to ignore fashion trends?
I graduated from the Faculty of Fine Arts with a major in Painting and for me, human body is an empty canvas. I place colours, shapes and details on the human silhouette, playing and rearranging them until I find a picture I like. I seek an original; that is my major starting point and my biggest inspiration - there are no trends in art.
I understand that fashion is something people should wear, but how exciting it is to push borders and give new options! That is the only way that works for me. Otherwise I wouldn't be interested in fashion at all.




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



Do you still follow trends, despite your not abiding to them?
The only way for my fashion to fit into a trend (in some way) is by coincidence.
For instance, if I liked something that happens to also be a major trend, like spikes or pastel colours, I wouldn't avoid it if it completes and fits my collection. But a trend as a starting point, for me, has no sense. I want to offer something different and new. It doesn't have to be liked or understood by many...




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



What do you find the most boring thing about the current fashion industry?
I don't even know what's going on in the fashion industry right now; at times I skip looking at seasons' collections. I prefer to keep my mind clear of any fashion influence because I have a strong visual memory.




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



When starting work on a new collection, is it usually on the occasion
of an inspiration or is it simply the urge to be creative ?

The urge to be creative is always present, so I have a sketchbook filled with ideas that can be a starting point for a few complete collections. I truly believe that if you keep creativity at a high level, it increases, it grows. For me, great inspiration comes from learning new things, new skills. I love doing all construction work for my collections because I get so many new ideas that I can't even use them all in one season...On the other hand, finding out about new scientific discoveries is precious also - any new information that widens my perception of the the world around me creates new space that needs to be filled with something fresh. It is a magic circle really, creative energy cannot be spent, it grows while you use it.




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



Which are the factors that have shaped your aesthetic sensibilities?
My father is a painter also, so I have been"trained" from an early age to look at things differently. I have become interested in the beauty of kitsch from a really early age, and it remains one of my greatest inspirations. Kitsch is teasing, it is supposed to be ugly but still it attracts with its playfulness. I am visually trained through my Arts studies, so I can safely and joyfully play with it. Fine art, visually, has always been a precious source of new ideas for me... Music I like is also a great inspiration. Songs I love listening to since I was a child (Cocteau Twins) open a door to a parallel dimension, set me into the right mood, sooth my nervous system and trigger my imagination.




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



Would you describe the concept for your FW 14-15 “Army Dreamers” collection?
The most important part of this collection are embellishments. It was quite of a journey collecting furniture ornaments, parts of chandeliers, plaster ornaments and what not, and then making molds and then making these plastic ornaments. After that process, I was ready to make sketches, making garments that would hold these ornaments, finding perfect postament for them. My fashion has always been deeply connected with fine art in its basics and this time I introduced architecture to it. Visually I wanted to create that strict uniform look, but my basic inspiration are Renaissance and Baroque facades and interiors. Embellishments that were used at the time, made buildings more accessible to the emotions; but when I used these sort of ornaments on garments, they made them even stricter and more dignified. Cuts are made in such a way so that they associate to building elements, and colours are freely used to keep that fun, cartoon, comic mood I like. I created an army that chases perfection, original creation, a better world, so it is really an army of dreamers. These women are dressed in some kind of uniform like garments, but still have that clown-like, funny side. So, they are either chasing after something that can not be caught, or are they real soldiers, fighting for something they truly believe in...




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



Do you ever experiment with your personal style?
Oh, I don't like to be the centre of attention and that's the only reason why I haven't really experimented with my own style.
I am an introvert person and I tend not to stand out.

 


ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



You come from Belgrade - how big a part did your national tradition play in the way your style evolved?
Serbian traditional folk costume and soldier uniforms are very beautiful.
I have already made a collection inspired by them, and have plans on making more. One’s national tradition and history should be studied and respected.
I like to know where I come from.




You come from Belgrade - how big a part did your national tradition play in the way your style evolved? Serbian traditional folk costume and soldier uniforms are very beautiful. I have already made a collection inspired by them, and have plans on making more. One�s national tradition and history should be studied and respected. I like to know where I come from.



Has there been a time in your life when the way you were dressed played a decisive role?
I believe so. It can change your personality a bit, temporarily, so that can play a part in some events and certain situations. It can alter a path at least.




ANA LJUBINKOVIĆ_ladiesngents



Do you still paint? Do you have any plans to do an exhibition of your work?
I have big plans for my art and I have been wanting to make an installation for quite a while now.. To open a door to another world, to a parallel world or universe (I believe in multiverses, actually) can be done only through art. But this takes time and serious devotion, and I want to spend a part of my life making art.
Art cannot be a hobby. It has to be a process of thinking, comprehending, making and living it. For now, I only also have a sketch book filled with ideas that hopefully will be turned into an art exhibition some day.




ana-ljubinkovic.com



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BARTHOLOT interview  
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Posted on Jul 22 2014
BARTHOLOT

BARTHOLOT

BAUER OHNE FELD
CONTRIBUTION TO VORN #7
CONCEPT |  SET DESIGN | PHOTOGRAPHY | CLIENT: VORN MAGAZINE



You have said that you see yourself as an image-maker. Can you recall when you
started to actually act as an image maker?
I mean, even as a child or adolescent, did you somehow tend to act this way too?

Ever since I was a little boy I was kind of obsessed with looks and clothes. As a teenager I became a proper fashion victim and later I turned into a freaky club kid.
My first „images“ were stylings of myself and my friends.




BARTHOLOT

FADFEST
THE FESTIVAL OF ALL DESIGN
VISUAL IDENTITY

ART DIRECTION | STYLING | PHOTOGRAPHY | CLIENT: FADFEST BARCELONA




BARTHOLOT

BEAUTY FARM
ANIMAL PORTRAITS




How did your love for images and costumes come about? What was it that triggered it?
I grew up in a very small town in the German south and was always eager for information on fashion and music. I think what really triggered my interest was FACE magazine which I discovered in the 80s - later ID magazine, too.




BARTHOLOT BERLIN

LA MORT EN ROSE
CONTRIBUTION TO POOOL MAGAZINE | OFFF BARCELONA 2014




When you begin to work on a new project does your motivation spring from an inner to need to express yourself or is it an inspiration that you act upon?
That depends on the kind of project I work on. However, I think there is always a starting point that I react upon - that could be a texture, a mood, a thought or a book I am reading. When working with clients, the starting point usually comes as a brief.




BARTHOLOT


BARTHOLOT

LA MORT EN ROSE
CONTRIBUTION TO POOOL MAGAZINE | OFFF BARCELONA 2014




Where does this surrealistic quality that characterises your images stem from?
Since we are living in a pretty disenchanted world my personal need for magic, the unexplained, the surreal is quite big. Surrealism is a great means to trigger the audience as well as myself. I like to stay uncertain and give space to personal interpretations.




BARTHOLOT


BARTHOLOT


BARTHOLOT

TRIBUNAL


Which factors have determined your aesthetic sensibilities?
That’s definitely related to my passion for any visual (such as history of art, fashion, theatre, nature) since I was a child. After having studied History of Art I trained as a graphic designer and both parts play a big role in my aesthetics.




BARTHOLOT

FOUR OF SPADES
STYLING | PHOTOGRAPHY




When working with big brands and big clients from the fashion industry which part
of the process do you find most creative? And in what way do you benefit from it?

When working with clients the challenge is to adapt my creativity to the brand without losing my style. That way I have to open up, work with new materials or from a different perspective and leave my comfort zone which can be very inspiring for further projects.




BARTHOLOT

GEOMETRIC HOMICIDE


BARTHOLOT

CRÈME DE LA CRÈME



How much may a bad mood affect the way you work or the result of your work?
I know it’s a clichée but i am always having this big suffering moment at some point of a project and somehow it seems to be necessary for the good to follow.




BARTHOLOT

LE CLOSEAU ENCHANTÉE
EDITORIAL | FASHION | ART DIRECTION | STYLING | PHOTOGRAPHY
CLIENT: SCHÖN MAGAZINE



BARTHOLOT

STRUMPFKOPF



You have said that your favourite type of photography is still life - what is it about still life pictures that you find most enticing and creatively challenging?

With still life photography (even when I shoot people) comes this quietness, this frozen moment that invites you to rest and reflect. In my case it has something very artificial and composed as I am not looking to copy a kind of reality or life. The challenging part is to combine everything to a coherent unit that fits my aesthetic scale.




BARTHOLOT

WILL YOU BE MY FRIEND?


BARTHOLOT

FLOATING



When it comes to your personal style do you like to experiment with it?
My personal style is somehow attached to all my work. I don’t know if I am experimenting with it as it seems to be something that comes so naturally.




bartholot.net


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Sankuanz interview  
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Posted on Jul 14 2014
Sankuanz
Sankuanz
Sankuanz

Sankuanz



You have said that you don’t care about meaning and that everything you do aims at making you happy.
Would you give me your personal definition of happiness?

To express my feelings honestly.




Sankuanz

Sankuanz



Can you recall the last time you felt really happy? When was it?
The time I was preparing my new collection.




Sankuanz
Sankuanz


Sankuanz


Sankuanz


Sankuanz



Would you describe the mood you wish to evoke with your collection for Fall 2014?

I sampled from the vulgar and egpull youth subculture in different areas,
mixed them in my collection, to come up with a unique youth culture.




Sankuanz



And what about your Spring/Summer 2015 collection? Which will be its main characteristics?
The 15SS collection doesn't use the street sports and rap music to present youth culture; we rather focus on youth spirit. Youth culture is not merely about entertainment; it is also about pursuit of freedom. So this collection starts with the military uniform that  young people wear in the street and this point triggers the whole collection. The cutting originates from the European army uniform of the time of Napoleon. To make it more sporty, we use a high tech sporting material. The print stems from motifs of tattoos in Soviet prisons, which is a very special type of tattoo that is not mere body decoration - it symbolises their bearers' attitude and experiences in that abnormal society that is the prison. That's what SANKUANZ 15SS needs. The big hand stage prop is the creative form Chen Tianzhuo, which made the serious theme a little absurd. That's the feeling we also need. We hope to express a serious topic in an easy and interesting way.




Sankuanz

Sankuanz



Is there one detail that is most crucial to you every time you have completed a collection?
Something that you always look at with the utmost care after everything else is done?

Not that I can think of right now.




Sankuanz


Sankuanz



Has there ever been an ïccasion when the outfit you were wearing influenced the way things turned out?
I am fearing to be the focus of group, so clothes are  to me what camouflage is to a soldier. I dress to hide myself in the crowd. I am wearing such simple outfits that most of the time the press people can’t tell I am the designer when I go on stage.




Sankuanz


Sankuanz


Sankuanz


Sankuanz


Sankuanz


Sankuanz



sankuanz.com



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